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friends Harvard Uncategorized

Fellowship

This one’s personal. We sent off another one of the group tonight. Thabo from South Africa has a flight on Wednesday, so we told stories and clinked our glasses and traded long, slow hugs all the way to the cab. David is gone now, and Peter and Karin, and Sapiyat, and the rest of us will trickle away one or two at a time from this place and this moment. Most of us are going back to jobs we love and people we miss. But the truth is that none of us want to leave.

Last Friday the 2008-09 Nieman Fellowship at Harvard officially ended. We rushed through the ceremony because Harvard President Drew Faust was the speaker and we were on her tight schedule. It didn’t matter. No ceremony could have gone slow enough to suit us. We would have been thrilled to drag it out for weeks.

You know how you stay up late on the last night of vacation because you don’t want it to end? We’ve been like that for a month. Our body clocks are wrecked. Some nights we stay up ’til sunrise and some days we sleep ’til noon. There is always another party or another outing and we say yes, yes, always yes, because when we’re together we have superpowers, together we can bend time back toward us, together we can almost stop it.

There are 29 of us fellows; add in spouses, partners and kids and we come to more than 60. Think about spending a year with 60 strangers from all over the world. Think about realizing, late in the year, to your shock, that you like them all. Love them, even.

Our time together is called a fellowship, and lately I’ve been thinking a lot about that word. When I was growing up it was a church word. In the back of any decent-sized Baptist church there’s always a fellowship hall, and that’s where you went after the Easter service or at homecoming to grab fried chicken and deviled eggs, and then sit down at long tables to talk. That was the real purpose of the fellowship hall — to spend a little time, get to know each other, deepen friendships.

This year we have made fellowship halls everywhere. We have had fellowship around tables at bars, standing on the bow of a whale-watching boat, drinking coffee around a weathered wooden table, sitting on benches in a stately old theater, in our apartments, in subway cars, out on the sidewalk, walking the long way home so we can be together two streets longer.

We have learned more about one another than we know about some members of our own families. We have shared secrets. We have had bitter arguments and patched the hurt places. We are still talking, still fellowshipping, even though the clock has run out and we are deep into extra time.

The test, of course, is the follow-through — how tight we stay together when we scatter to the corners of the globe, back at our old jobs, with our old friends, with so many things conspiring to fold up this year and put it in a drawer until the names are too faded to read.

That has happened to me more than once.

But here’s what we learned at Harvard: Love and friendship is all. You don’t have to go to Harvard to learn that, but damn if it isn’t a lesson that fails to sink in for most of us.

There are these wonderful inventions called e-mail and Skype, and there are still such things as telephones and postage stamps. There are these glorious things called airplanes that will lift us up from Charlotte and deposit us in Dublin or Beijing or Mexico City, and they can lift you up, too, to the places you need to go and the people you need to see.

Love and friendship is all, and the only way to make it work is to live your life in fellowship, present tense. That is what we plan to do. And if we play it right these next few weeks of seeing one another off will just be commas instead of periods, and the sentence will run on and on and never end, and we will spend the rest of our lives hugging and waving and parting but never really saying goodbye.

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Media Uncategorized

Guest post

My brilliant sportswriter friend Joe Posnanski (author of the best blog in the history of the Internet) asked me to write something for his other blog, on the future of newspapers. I have pretty much made a vow never to go to another conference or workshop about the future of newspapers, because it all ends up sounding like a meeting of Depressions Anonymous. When somebody figures out the future of newspapers, drop me a line. If I ever figure it out, I promise y’all will be the first to know.

Anyway, I may have blown the assignment, because it’s not so much about the future of newspapers as the future of stories. Take a look and see what you think.

Categories
Media Uncategorized

Guest post

My brilliant sportswriter friend Joe Posnanski (author of the best blog in the history of the Internet) asked me to write something for his other blog, on the future of newspapers. I have pretty much made a vow never to go to another conference or workshop about the future of newspapers, because it all ends up sounding like a meeting of Depressions Anonymous. When somebody figures out the future of newspapers, drop me a line. If I ever figure it out, I promise y’all will be the first to know.

Anyway, I may have blown the assignment, because it’s not so much about the future of newspapers as the future of stories. Take a look and see what you think.

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Home third place Uncategorized

Willie’s

willies

(photo from sssdc1 via Flickr)

A lot of thoughtful people have written about how most of us need a “third place” — somewhere that’s not home and not work, somewhere where we feel comfortable, somewhere to gather with our friends and make sense of the day. Bars are a traditional third place. Starbucks can charge ridiculous prices for coffee because it’s got the couches and the laptop jacks and the music: a great third place. The best third place in my life has been a scruffy-looking hot-dog joint called Willie’s Wee-Nee Wagon.

Willie’s has a Facebook group (and a Myspace page!), and a couple of days ago somebody posted on the Facebook page that Willie had died. It turns out the man we all knew as Willie was in fact named Arnell Chambers. Word on the message board is that his wife is not sure she wants to keep the place going. So this might be an obituary for Willie’s the place as well as Willie the man. Although I sure hope not.

Willie’s sits on Altama Avenue, the main drag in my hometown of Brunswick, Ga. The sign out front says “WE RELISH YOUR BUN.” It’s across the road from the community college and down the street from the bowling alley. If you ever want to find anybody in Brunswick, just wait in the parking lot at Willie’s. They’ll show up soon enough.

Calvin Trillin once wrote that anybody who didn’t think the best hamburger in the world is in his hometown is a sissy. So take this with whatever grains of salt you think necessary, preferably the salt from Willie’s, not those little snap-open packets you get everywhere, but elegant little tubes I’ve never seen anywhere else; at Willie’s even the salt is better.

I’ve had Chicago dogs recommended by locals, New York dogs from the street carts, dogs from the Varsity in Atlanta and Green’s in Charlotte and ballparks around the country. None of them touch the hot dogs from Willie’s.

Willie offers eight basic dogs, customizable to your tastes, and my tastes evolved over the years. In my younger days I went for the Bull Dog — a dog all the way — so crammed with toppings that the spillover made its own side dish. Later on I had an affair with the Willie Dog, dressed with mustard, relish, onions and tomato. Lately, with the discretion of middle age, I choose the simple slaw dog, sometimes with cheese, always with thick steak fries and dark icy sweet tea.

Willie’s has a sign offering $2,000 to anybody who could find a better pork chop sandwich in Glynn County. I suspect Willie might have been the final judge on that, so I doubt he ever paid, but if there ever was a better pork chop sandwich than Willie’s it might be worth $2,000 to find out.

All this comes from a building the size and shape of a single-wide trailer. It’s built on a little riser, so the cashier looks down on you as she takes your order, and you can’t really see what’s going on in the kitchen. That’s probably for the best. Willie’s scores high on the health inspections but the place always looks rundown, like it’s held together by half a pound of nails and 30 years of grease.

There’s a little screened-off area with a couple of tables, but people hardly ever eat there. At Willie’s you eat at the picnic tables under the awning, or you eat in the car with the windows rolled down so you can talk to your neighbor. It’s a small parking lot so everybody parks close together. You end up with lawyers in Sunday suits next to painters with Sherwin-Williams in their hair next to teenagers just back from the beach. They talk Georgia football and the state of the union and how the shrimp are running. It’s the democratic ideal with grilled onions.

At Willie’s my friends and I dreamed between bites. We dreamed of the bar we’d open one day, the lives we’d lead out on our own, the girls we wanted but seldom got. After I got older and moved away I came back to Willie’s to find old friends. I went there for a moment alone after my dad died. I went there to find something solid after we moved my mom to a new town. I went there with the woman who became my wife.

Years ago — at least 15 — I wrote a travel story for the Charlotte paper about Brunswick and the nearby islands. Somewhere deep in the story I mentioned Willie’s — I think I said that, if I were ever elected president, I’d have Willie’s hot dogs delivered to the White House every day. The next time I went home, I stopped by Willie’s and the story was pinned to a little bulletin board by the window. It stayed there for years. To this day I don’t know how they found out about it. But I do know this: For a newspaper guy, there isn’t much better than seeing a story of yours on the wall of one of your favorite places in the world.

I only saw Willie — Arnell — a few times. The story I always heard was that he was from New Jersey somewhere, came down to Brunswick on vacation and decided he had to stay. I remember two things about him. One, he always seemed to be driving a different car — I think the hot dog business was pretty good to him. Two, every time I saw him he was laughing. There are a lot worse things to do with your life than creating a third place for a whole town. So many of us, even good men and women, lead lives that fade into vapor the moment we’re gone. But no one where I’m from will ever forget Willie’s.

Categories
Home third place Uncategorized

Willie’s

willies

(photo from sssdc1 via Flickr)

A lot of thoughtful people have written about how most of us need a “third place” — somewhere that’s not home and not work, somewhere where we feel comfortable, somewhere to gather with our friends and make sense of the day. Bars are a traditional third place. Starbucks can charge ridiculous prices for coffee because it’s got the couches and the laptop jacks and the music: a great third place. The best third place in my life has been a scruffy-looking hot-dog joint called Willie’s Wee-Nee Wagon.

Willie’s has a Facebook group (and a Myspace page!), and a couple of days ago somebody posted on the Facebook page that Willie had died. It turns out the man we all knew as Willie was in fact named Arnell Chambers. Word on the message board is that his wife is not sure she wants to keep the place going. So this might be an obituary for Willie’s the place as well as Willie the man. Although I sure hope not.

Willie’s sits on Altama Avenue, the main drag in my hometown of Brunswick, Ga. The sign out front says “WE RELISH YOUR BUN.” It’s across the road from the community college and down the street from the bowling alley. If you ever want to find anybody in Brunswick, just wait in the parking lot at Willie’s. They’ll show up soon enough.

Calvin Trillin once wrote that anybody who didn’t think the best hamburger in the world is in his hometown is a sissy. So take this with whatever grains of salt you think necessary, preferably the salt from Willie’s, not those little snap-open packets you get everywhere, but elegant little tubes I’ve never seen anywhere else; at Willie’s even the salt is better.

I’ve had Chicago dogs recommended by locals, New York dogs from the street carts, dogs from the Varsity in Atlanta and Green’s in Charlotte and ballparks around the country. None of them touch the hot dogs from Willie’s.

Willie offers eight basic dogs, customizable to your tastes, and my tastes evolved over the years. In my younger days I went for the Bull Dog — a dog all the way — so crammed with toppings that the spillover made its own side dish. Later on I had an affair with the Willie Dog, dressed with mustard, relish, onions and tomato. Lately, with the discretion of middle age, I choose the simple slaw dog, sometimes with cheese, always with thick steak fries and dark icy sweet tea.

Willie’s has a sign offering $2,000 to anybody who could find a better pork chop sandwich in Glynn County. I suspect Willie might have been the final judge on that, so I doubt he ever paid, but if there ever was a better pork chop sandwich than Willie’s it might be worth $2,000 to find out.

All this comes from a building the size and shape of a single-wide trailer. It’s built on a little riser, so the cashier looks down on you as she takes your order, and you can’t really see what’s going on in the kitchen. That’s probably for the best. Willie’s scores high on the health inspections but the place always looks rundown, like it’s held together by half a pound of nails and 30 years of grease.

There’s a little screened-off area with a couple of tables, but people hardly ever eat there. At Willie’s you eat at the picnic tables under the awning, or you eat in the car with the windows rolled down so you can talk to your neighbor. It’s a small parking lot so everybody parks close together. You end up with lawyers in Sunday suits next to painters with Sherwin-Williams in their hair next to teenagers just back from the beach. They talk Georgia football and the state of the union and how the shrimp are running. It’s the democratic ideal with grilled onions.

At Willie’s my friends and I dreamed between bites. We dreamed of the bar we’d open one day, the lives we’d lead out on our own, the girls we wanted but seldom got. After I got older and moved away I came back to Willie’s to find old friends. I went there for a moment alone after my dad died. I went there to find something solid after we moved my mom to a new town. I went there with the woman who became my wife.

Years ago — at least 15 — I wrote a travel story for the Charlotte paper about Brunswick and the nearby islands. Somewhere deep in the story I mentioned Willie’s — I think I said that, if I were ever elected president, I’d have Willie’s hot dogs delivered to the White House every day. The next time I went home, I stopped by Willie’s and the story was pinned to a little bulletin board by the window. It stayed there for years. To this day I don’t know how they found out about it. But I do know this: For a newspaper guy, there isn’t much better than seeing a story of yours on the wall of one of your favorite places in the world.

I only saw Willie — Arnell — a few times. The story I always heard was that he was from New Jersey somewhere, came down to Brunswick on vacation and decided he had to stay. I remember two things about him. One, he always seemed to be driving a different car — I think the hot dog business was pretty good to him. Two, every time I saw him he was laughing. There are a lot worse things to do with your life than creating a third place for a whole town. So many of us, even good men and women, lead lives that fade into vapor the moment we’re gone. But no one where I’m from will ever forget Willie’s.

Categories
Music Uncategorized

Stand by me

Amazing, the things you find when you comb through old e-mails… my friend Marc sent this out about a week ago but I just looked this morning. If there were ever a song meant to brighten your Monday, this is it. It’s the true “We Are the World.”

Stand By Me from David Johnson on Vimeo.